Bhutan is one of the to the highest degree isolated nations in the world, extraneous determines & tourism are heavily governed by the government to preserve its traditional Tibetan Buddhist culture. most Bhutanese adopt either the Drukpa Kagyu or the Nyingmapa school of Tibetan Buddhism. The official language is Dzongkha (lit. “the oral communication of the dzong”).

Bhutan is frequently described as the last surviving refuge of traditional Himalayan Buddhist culture. Non-Buddhists complain of man rights offences approximately 100,000 ethnic Nepali (who are generally Hindu) left the country in the 1980s as they were unhappy with new government insurances planned to bring down the growing illegal immigration derived from Nepal.

Stone tools, arms, and remnants of big stone structures provide evidence that Bhutan was populated as former as 2000 BC. Historians have theorised that the state of Lhomon (literally, “southern darkness”), or Monyul (”Dark Land”, a reference to the Monpa – the aboriginal peoples of Bhutan) may have existed between 500 BC and AD 600. The names Lhomon Tsendenjong (Sandalwood Country), and Lhomon Khashi, or even Southern Mon (country of four approaches) have been found in ancient Bhutanese and Tibetan chronicles.

The earliest transcribed event in Bhutan was the passage of the Buddhist saint Padmasambhava (also called Guru Rinpoche) in the 8th century. Bhutan’s former history is unclear, because to the highest degree of the records were destructed after fire ravaged Punakha, the ancient capital in 1827. By the 10th century, Bhutan’s political development was heavily influenced by its religious history.

Several sub-sects of Buddhism issued which were patronised by the Several Mongol & Tibetan overlords. After the decline of the Mongols in the 14th century, those sub-sects vied with each more for mastery in the political & spiritual landscape, eventually leading to the ascendancy of the Drukpa sub-sect by the 16th century.

Bhutan remains one of the most secluded nations in the world, and almost tourists are involved to book packaged tours (offered by the country’s numerous tourist agencies) in order to travel around the country. In contrast to Nepal, which is well-known as a budget travel destination, Bhutan imposes a minimal daily fee of US$200 for tourists travelling in groups during high season, or US$240 per day for single travelers (who still must be accompanied by a guide and driver).

The traditional dress for Ngalong and Sharchop men is the gho, a knee-length robe tied at the waistline by a cloth belt known as the kera. Women wear an ankle-length dress, the kira, which is clipped at one shoulder and tied at the waist. A accompaniment to the kira is a long-sleeved blouse, the toego, which is wear off underneath the outer layer. Social status and class find out the texture, colours, and decorations that embellish the garments.

Scarves and shawls are also indicants of social standings, as Bhutan has traditionally been a feudal society. Earrings are wear off by females. Controversially, Bhutanese law now requires these Tibetan-style garments for all Bhutanese citizens including the Nepalese, who are not of Tibetan stock.

Bhutan’s national sport is archery, and competitions are held regularly in virtually all villages. It differs from Olympic standards not only in technical details such as the placement of the targets and atmosphere. There are two targets placed over 100 metres apart and teams shoot from one end of the field to the other. Both member of the team shoots 2 arrows per round. Traditional Bhutanese archery is a social festival and competitions are organised between villages, towns, and amateur teams.

There are typically plenty of food and drink complete with singing and dancing cheerleaders comprising of the wives and supporters of the participating teams. Attempts to distract A opponent include standing around the target and making fun of the shooter’s ability. Darts (khuru) is A equally popular outdoor team sport, in which heavy wooden darts indicated with a 10cm nail are throw away at a paperback-sized target ten to twenty metres away.

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Today, Norm Goldman, Editor of Sketchandtravel and Bookpleasures is honored to have as our guest author and writer, Sally Wendkos Olds.

Sally has written about family, children, women, relationships, sexuality, psychology, health, and travel, and has authored several books.

Sally has also contributed articles to: McCall’s, Ms., New York Times Magazine, Redbook, Woman’s Day, and many other major publications.

In 1993 Sally and artist Margaret Roche trekked to the remote village of Badel located in the eastern hills of Nepal. They were the first western women to go there.

Norm:

Sally, could you tell our readers something about yourself and why you wanted to trek to Badel? How many times have you returned since your first trip?

Sally:

I had trekked in Nepal twice before with my husband, Mark, who was fulfilling a boyhood dream by going there. In 1987 we went to the Annapurna region and in 1991 to the Everest area, and I fell in love with this little Himalayan kingdom.

I became entranced by the remarkable sweetness and cheerfulness of the Nepali people. In spite of their poverty and hard lives, none of the Nepalis I had met showed bitter, hostile, or even resigned faces to the world. I wanted to learn more about them – and I wanted to learn what they could teach me. I eventually did both.

Mark, whose knee gives him trouble, did not want to go back to Nepal. Through serendipitous circumstances (which I describe in the book) I met Margaret Roche, an artist who had also trekked in Nepal several times, and we decided to go together to a remote hill village and stay with local families. We went to Badel for the first time in 1993, and we returned together three more times, plus one trip each on our own. I have now been to Nepal seven times.

Norm:

Where exactly is Nepal, as well as Badel? How easy or difficult is it to travel to Nepal and what can travelers expect once they are there?

Sally:

Nepal is a narrow, crescent-shaped country about the size of Florida, with a population of about 27 million. It lies north of India and south of Tibet, separated from it by the Himalayas, the youngest and highest mountain range in the world. It’s easy to get there if you don’t mind multi hours in the air and in airports changing planes. Getting to Kathmandu, the capital, from North America involves about 20 hours of flying time. Badel, in the eastern hills due south of Mount Everest, is reached by a 35-minute flight from Kathmandu to a small airstrip in the village of Lamidanda, and then by a three-day trek, since there are no roads into the village.

Kathmandu is a lively, crowded city of half a million. It’s full of the roar of motorcycles; the beeping of horns by taxi drivers swerving around sacred cows resting in the middle of busy thoroughfares; and men and boys trying to sell you carpets or hashish or the all-purpose nostrum “tiger balm,” change dollars on the black market, or take you for rickety rides in bicycle rickshaws.

Much business takes place on the street – and also in the many shops and in the restaurants serving cuisines from around the world. Religion too takes place in the streets, dotted with Hindu and Buddhist shrines and temples.

Norm:

I noticed you had written an article about a Himalayan Seder-Passover in Kathmandu. What was this all about?

Sally:

For about the past dozen years a group of Lubavitchers from Brooklyn (New York) have held an annual Passover celebration on the grounds of the Israeli Embassy in Kathmandu, flying over some 250 frozen kosher chickens, countless jars of gefilte fish, and scores of boxes of matzo.

Israel and Nepal have cooperated with each other since 1960, and Nepal is a popular travel destination for young Israelis, especially after they complete their military service. About 1,000 Israelis come to this seder every year, and in 1993 I was lucky enough to be able to join in.

Norm:

As many of our readers are interested in romantic destinations, could you describe some unique and romantic destinations in Nepal, and would you recommend Nepal as a romantic destination?

Sally:

I would recommend Nepal as a romantic destination for any couple who enjoy visiting exotic cultures and getting to know each other in a totally new environment.

* Those who like hiking, camping, and the beauties of nature can experience all these in Nepal. Kathmandu, the capital, offers 5-star hotels and simple guesthouses, top-flight restaurants, gorgeous Himalayan vistas, artistic splendour, and fascinating sight-seeing and cultural opportunities.

* Pokhara, in the geographic center of the country, is known for its stunning natural beauty, with a gentle climate, tropical flowers, a sapphire lake, and magnificent mountain views.

* At Chitwan National Park in the south, you can ride on elephants, go white-water rafting, see tigers, rhinos, and some fifty other kinds of mammals, as well as 400 species of birds.

* The world-renowned Tiger Tops Jungle Lodge provides luxurious accommodations and food, and a number of more modest lodges are in and just outside the park.

* Along popular trekking routes you can either camp out in tents or stay at teahouse-lodges, some of which are high-end, while others are humble. Tour agencies can make all your arrangements for any of these destinations, or you can go independently and hire your own guides.

Norm:

You are the author of a book entitled, A Balcony In Nepal: Glimpses Of A Himalayan Village. Could you tell us something about the book and what made you want to write the book?

Sally:

The book is about the way of life in Badel, a remote hamlet in Nepal’s eastern hills, and how Marge Roche and I were affected by our visits with the people there.
Through our guide, Buddi Rai, the first university graduate from Badel, we were able to meet and talk with the village midwife, headman, school- teachers, shamans, and other citizens. We learned about marriage, birth, death, and many other customs. Some of the people we met have been immortalized by Marge’s graceful drawings and water- colors, which are in the book.

At first we thought this way of life would go on forever, but now I wonder whether we may have witnessed the twilight of a changing way of life. The nine-year-old insurgency in Nepal by Mao-inspired guerrillas, has affected village life and sent many villagers to new lives in the cities. Still, some aspects of life in Nepal’s many regions without electricity or roads will probably endure for years. And once peace returns, the inherent sweetness and friendliness of Nepal’s people will, I am sure, have survived intact. I have to add here that although the rebellion has sparked violence in many outlying areas, no tourists have been targeted, and visitors from around the world continue to come to Nepal to experience its many treasures.

Norm:

As a follow up, can you explain some of your research techniques, and how you found sources for your book?

Sally:

For this book, unlike the other nine I have written, most of my research involved living in the country and observing the people and events around me. I was what anthropologists call a “participant-observer.”

Although I took a few lessons in the Nepali language before I left the U.S. most of my conversations with local people were translated by Buddi, our guide, who speaks excellent English. My sources were right there in the village. I did expand my knowledge of Nepal’s history and culture by reading scholarly books, most of which I purchased in the excellent English-language book stores in Kathmandu. Through them I learned about the Gurkha soldiers, the many different ethnic groups in Nepal, the succession of rulers, and other aspects of the country and her people. I’m happy to say that A Balcony in Nepal has been republished in India for the Southeast Asia market and is now available in Kathmandu.

Norm:

What challenges or obstacles did you encounter while traveling to Nepal? How did you overcome these challenges?

Sally:

The main challenge was the physical one. Before every trek I trained for months. I hiked on hills and walked up and down flights of stairs (up to a total of 1,000 steps), so that I would be able to master the endless hills of Nepal. (You don’t have to be a super-athlete, however; I was 53 years old when I first went, and 70 on my last trip.)

I also needed to be immunized against a number of diseases. And I always took with me supplies of medicines, including antibiotics against intestinal and respiratory illness, some of which I did experience. I also took out travel insurance in the remote possibility that I would need to be helicoptered out of a remote location.

Once there, as in any Third World country, I was careful about what I ate and drank, and I made sure to get enough rest after the strenuous days of trekking. For the most part, I’m happy to say that I stayed in good health and returned safe.

Norm:

Since the first time you traveled to Nepal, what changes have you noticed over the years with each of your return adventures?

Sally:

When I first went to Kathmandu in 1987, the streets in Thamel, the back-packer neighbourhood where I have always stayed, were dirt roads; now they are paved. Garbage pick-up was a matter of stray dogs and sacred cows eating from piles in the streets; now trucks come by every morning.

The number of gourmet restaurants, high-end shops, and 5-star hotels has mushroomed over the years. Communication with the outside world has become more widespread with the advent of email and the Internet, and the cities are full of inexpensive cyber-caf

I have written about my dentist before who is a really cool guy. Not only is he a dentist, but he is also a practicing lawyer. More than that he is also a world traveller and an active global volunteer. Dr. Arya recently did a treek through Nepal, which he described as his most challenging travel experience ever, physically and mentally. Read here about his adventure in Nepal:

1) Please give us a general itinerary of the trip and a description of the trekk

Our trip was a 12-day trip in which we landed in the Delhi and eventually made our way by various modes of transportation to the State of Sikhim, which is in the very northern part of India. Sikhim is a very controversial state, as it is the subject of many territory disputes between China and India. However, I believe that China has just recently officially recognized it as a part of India. The trekk involved first going to Darjeeling (yes, where the tea originates!), where we rested up and slightly acclimatized ourselves for 2 or 3 days in a very picturesque, tranquil setting. From there we took a 7 hour jeep ride up into Yuksom (Sikhim), a little village where trekkers usually start their journey. The long jeep ride itself was quite exciting as you are going up mountains on very narrow roads, and cars are coming from all over not paying particular attention to which side of the road they should be traveling. One side of the road has a sheer cliff with no guardrails, and you think you are going to fall down any moment.

There were also some hilarious road signs going all the way up, reminding people to drive slowly: For example, “Don’t hurry, so that you can enjoy your curry”, or “Donate your blood at the blood bank, not on the highway.” We really got a chuckle out of these signs. Finally, after the long ride we made it to our starting point for the trekk where we stayed in a very basic hotel. It was probably a one-star hotel; however little did we know that this would actually be luxury compared to the accommodations that were still to come.

On our trekk we had with us one sherpa guide, 2 sherpa cooks, and 2 sherpa horsemen for carrying supplies. The carrying animals are small ponies or yaks, since they are the only animals that can make it through the rough terrain.

We started the trekk with daypacks- weighing less than 20 pounds. We also carried water and fancy gear such as climbing poles, fancy hiking boots, etc. Members of 6 person group also carried medical and trekking kits. The heavier bags were put on the animals and taken up. So, we were excited and ready to go.

Basically, every day we walked about 20 km or so which took about 9 hours to do. We typically walked uphill for 8 or 9 hours straight with a one hour lunch break through various terrains. The vegetation changes the higher up you go. We started at an altitude of about 2000 m where the vegetation was very green and lush. As we got to 4000 m (equivalent to the top of the European Alps) around the second or third day of the trekk, we started to see rhododendrons fade, less green and more shrubs. We spent about a day at that altitude to acclimatize ourselves.

We stayed in wood huts or tents that had no electricity, no running water, no furniture, no plumbing, or no heat. The nights got really cold, so the sherpas would boil water and fill it into our drinking bottles. We took those hot bottles and put them into our sleeping bags to keep warm. The next day we used the same water as drinking water. For the entire 8 days we did not really substantially change our clothes; we just changed socks in order to avoid blisters. You certainly don’t want to expose skin too long in this environment.

Interestingly enough, at about 4000 m I actually got a severe headache, my nose started bleeding, and my ears were ringing really bad. Every night we would have debriefings: however that night I did not participate in the debriefing since I wasn’t feeling well at all. I was very quiet. I took some diamoxx to help me more quickly adjust to the altitude.

The next day I felt better, and we kept on going up. At about 4500 m we started to see snow and sleet. At about 5000 m we reached Samiti Lake, which is a high altitude lake. It is very odd to see a little lake in the middle of these mountains. We camped out there, this was our pinnacle day.
The next day we aimed to go to Lagochla which was going to be the high altitude point for the trekk. Of the 6 people in our group, 4 of us decided to make it to Lagochla. Last year 6 Germans actually died on this stretch because of an avalanche. They had been instructed by the sherpas not to go, but they went anyway- killing themselves and a poor porter.

To reach Lagochla we left at 2 am, when it was pitch dark outside. We had headlights on our heads and followed closely on the guide’s footsteps. We were literally walking on the edge of cliffs at times. You don’t know how far down the cliff is- it could be 2 feet or 200 feet. All you can do is just concentrate and keep on walking. At 2:30 am, my hands started hurting because of the cold. Since it was so early into the trekk I did not want to say anything and embarrass myself. Right about that time, the girl in front of me stopped and started to complain about the same thing. We all stopped to evaluate the situation. She pulled out a heat pack to warm her hands. I found that the act of moving fingers back and forth quickly actually calmed our fingers down. We continued to climb and at 4:45 am we reached our pinnacle. We didn’t go any further than that. We had hit Lagochla I. Lagochla III was slightly ahead and was to be our planned destination; however the sherpas felt it was too dangerous to continue. There was some heavy debate amongst them and then us. We decided we were done and would watch the sunrise from this point. Then we all did a little prayer with the sherpas. We savoured the view, which is, of course, unbelievably beautiful. We were very close to Katchachamanga, the 3rd highest peak in the world. The view was truly spectacular. I made a mental note as we turned around at 5:10 am and I thought of my wife, saying to myself “I am coming home”. Little did I know that the walk back was extremely hard as well, it was very slippery and dangerous and very hard on the knees. At that point we were 4 days into the hard trekk and we had another 4 days to go.

After our early morning trip to Lagochla, we got back to the camp at 8:30 am. We had breakfast and then we walked another 9 hours. We slowly made our way down, 8 or 9 hours every day. On the second last day of the trekk, one group member got very violently ill. At one time she actually threw up 9 times an hour. She was completely zapped of energy. On the last day, another group member got sick. At this point, I decided to talk to the leader since I am familiar with this type of illness. I figured both of them just needed rest, why don’t I take them down as quickly as possible to the hotel. Coming down slower would be even more painful for these guys as they had the mental fortitude and physical tenacity to make a ‘run’ for it. We would aim for doing it in 6 hours instead of 9. So a decision was made that I would take them down. The 2 sick people and myself rushed down and we indeed made it in 6 hours. Making it down safely was an incredible experience. I felt it was a real physical and mental feat.

After rushing down from the mountains we arrived in the little dusty town where we had started and we felt like cowboys riding in. The locals were sitting around in the heat watching three dusty travellers limp through their town with smiling faces. We were told that of all trekking groups that went up at this time, we were the only group that had made it to Lagochla, everybody else had turned around. We were very even more proud of the accomplishment.

One of the sherpas said that Western people always say “we conquered the mountain”. Eastern people, on the other hand, say “the mountain let us pass”. I am a firm believer of the latter. The rest of group came down a couple of hours later, exhilirated to make it back safely. We were all in a state of shock due to exertion, but we were happy as well.

3) Please comment on practical aspects of the trekk: accommodation, food, equipment, fitness level required

Obviously, one has to be in decent shape to do this sort of trek. I am not certain one needs to be a marathoner etc. do complete it. I was in good shape anyway as I run and work out quite a bit. From a cardio perspective, I did not feel exerted. I did feel exerted tremendously from a muscular perspective as the duration of each trekking day was quite long. The trek can be hard on your knees and feet.

We all had very high quality mountain boots and packs. We had breathable clothes and socks. We would carry water bottles during the day along with high energy food stuffs like peanut brittle.

As far as accommodation goes-well, what accommodation?

I would, however, recommend that if one elects to go on this type of journey then they be in good shape of course. Get your cardio to a point where you are not huffing and puffing after a 30 minute jog. The mental training would be equally important. Read about the details of these types of trips and learn what to expect. Try to take some of the surprise out of it. It may help.

Susanne Pacher is the publisher of a website called Travel and Transitions (http://www.travelandtransitions.com). Travel and Transitions deals with unconventional travel and is chock full of advice, tips, real life travel experiences, interviews with travellers and travel experts, insights and reflections, cross-cultural issues, contests and many other features. You will also find stories about life and the transitions that we face as we go through our own personal life-long journeys.

Submit your own travel stories in our first travel story contest(http://www.travelandtransitions.com/contests.htm) and have a chance to win an amazing adventure cruise on the Amazon River.

“Life is a Journey